California is like a pretty girl," a cohort of Sacramento founding
father John Sutter once said.
"Everybody wants her." If that's so, Sacramento should be one of
the belles of the ball, and in many respects, shes just that.
The city certainly isn't the first place most people fantasize about
when thinking of the Golden State; in fact, many people incorrectly identify San Francisco or Los Angeles as its capital.
John McCrea of the local rock band Cake once described his hometown
as "a flat place, a dry place, a matte-finish place.
Were not exactly sure what he meant by that last phrase, but we
know it isnt good.
Sacramento isnt a typical tourist town.
That doesnt mean her frequent visitors wont find a wealth of great
exploring here, however.
In a state that is thin on a sense of history, theres plenty in
Sacramento, from Sutters Fort and the state Capitol to Old Sacramento, the lively district that celebrates the citys Old West
roots.
Its a river city and a surprisingly leafy one, given McCreas dour description; there are more trees here per
capita than in any other city in the country.
The spillover of wealth from the overpriced Bay Area has brought
us a new dose of prosperity and more good restaurants.
There are some delightful museums here, a surprising local rock
scene, plenty of political intrigue if you run in the right circles, and a basketball team the Kings whose stars are mimicked
in pick-up games all over the country.
Plus, Sacramento is a perfect launching pad for trips to some of Californias
grandest beauties the ones everyone truly wants -- like Lake Tahoe, Yosemite National Park and the Gold Country.
The
story begins with the 49ers.
After gold was discovered by a business partner of Sutters at a
mill 45 miles away, Sacramento became the key center of commerce in the region.
Old Sacramento, next to downtown, celebrates the era with cobblestone
streets,
wooden sidewalks, horse drawn carriages and old-fashioned saloons.
The wealth from that era would eventually finance much fine architecture,
and some survives today.
But Sacramento owes much of its longevity to the role it has played in transportation.
It was the western terminus of the Pony Express as well as the headquarters
of the transcontinental railroad. The city sits where the Sacramento and American rivers meet, and it prospered for years
as the pushing-off spot for the water route to San Francisco.
Today, the Delta King, an authentic paddleboat that trolled the
waters during the 1930s, is a floating hotel, bar and restaurant.
And at the California State Railroad Museum, where 21 restored train
engines are on display, everyone feels the power of the westward movement.
Sacramentans would balk at a description
of their city that revolved solely around the old town and the Gold Rush.
Being the center of politics in the nations largest state has made
it a hub in its own right.
Thanks to a pricey restoration process that began in the mid-90s,
the city is fast making a name for itself as an urban enclave as well.
All manner of hotels, from posh suites to youth hostels, can be
found here, and shopping ranges from quaint riverfront shops to a downtown Galleria full of upscale stores.
The Crocker Art Museum has hosted exhibits by the likes of Rodin
and has a 440-year-old copy of The Canterbury Tales among its holdings.
Nightlife bustles in the Midtown area, where regulars enjoy an underground
music scene and are still known by name at local bars.
When you look beyond the citys borders, youll find more even
history, entertainment and adventure, all within just a few hours drive.
The thread that holds together California's
Gold Country is the aptly named Highway 49.
It connects the small, quaint and hospitable towns that sprouted
up overnight 150 years ago in the foothills east of here.
While the Gold Country suffers from the usual tourist traps, its
history is also beautifully preserved.
Youll see everything from the creek where gold was discovered to
the trees where speedy justice was handed out.
Take time to visit Calaveras County, where Missouri-born journalist
Samuel Clemens wrote as Mark Twain; the hamlets of Placerville and Coloma, towns where the saloons once outnumbered residents;
and Nevada City, the jewel of the Gold Country, with its old Victorians and perfectly preserved main drag.
Many of the old mine towns still exist, and some of the mines can
be visited today.
Lake Tahoe, on the California/Nevada border, is another jewel in the Sierras.
The largest alpine lake in North America glistens with beauty in
summer and winter.
Activities abound, with snow-clad peaks and some of the countrys
best skiing giving way to fishing, boating and generally uncrowded beaches.
Tahoe's North Shore lends itself to travelers in search of refuge,
with smaller inns, less traffic and development. The South Shore is another story:
High-rise hotels and casinos and an array of year-round nightlife
keep the streets full of people.
Both shores provide a starting point for great outdoor activities
and the lake is just as pretty from one as the other.
Then theres Yosemite.
Were biased, but this park, 190 miles southeast of Sacramento, gets
our vote as the prettiest place on earth.
Yosemite is nature's artwork, chiseled out of solid granite by that
unrelenting sculptor, ice.
A glacier formed the valley 30,000 years ago, leaving behind El
Capitan, Half Dome, Vernal Falls and Royal Arches.
Artists come with their paints and easels, tripods and cameras,
while hikers head for the backcountry.
Each enjoys the grandeur of this place in equal measure.
Its
an interesting mix of history and adventure the area provides, and it all begins in Sacramento.
The old girl looks better and better all the time.
